You might have seen photos of turquoise coves, dramatic cliffs, and white fishing villages somewhere along the Spanish coastline. Chances are, they were taken at the Camí de Ronda trail in Catalonia.
Stretching along the rugged coastline of the Costa Brava, this seaside trail is the perfect way to discover one of the most beautiful parts of Spain if you like hiking and breathtaking views.
I still haven’t managed to walk the entire route in one go, but I’ve explored many sections of this beautiful coastal path and every single time, it has amazed me.
In this post, I’ll share everything you need to know about the Camí de Ronda and I’ll give you practical tips to help you plan your trip.
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What is the Camí de Ronda
In the past, the Catalan term Camí de Ronda (which is called Camino de Ronda in Spanish) was used to describe the coastal paths that were used by patrol guards to monitor the shoreline and prevent smuggling. This is why you’ll find several coastal paths around Catalonia that carry the name Camí de Ronda. Nowadays, the Camí de Ronda is best known for the multi-day hike, stretching from the town of Portbou (on the border with France) to Lloret de Mar.
This long hike takes you to the most beautiful spots on the Costa Brava, where you can discover small coves, fishing villages, and stop at amazing viewpoints where I guarantee you will take a million photos.
There are lots of villages on the way, which makes it easy to hike just a short stretch and come back another time if you want to discover more of it.
Stages and highlights
The Camí de Ronda route, which partly follows the GR-92 trail can be divided into roughly 10 stages. I put them in order from north to south.
Stage 1: Portbou – Llançà (10 km)
Stage 2: Llançà – Cadaqués (19,5 km)
Stage 3: Cadaqués – Roses (21,5 km)
Stage 4: Roses – L’Escala (20,5 km)
Stage 5: L’Escala – Torroella de Montgrí (21km)
Stage 6: Torroella de Montgrí – Begur (21,5 km)
Stage 7: Begur – Palamós (22,5 km)
Stage 8: Palamós – S’Agaró/Sant Feliu de Guíxols (14,5 km)
Stage 9: S’Agaró/Sant Feliu de Guíxols – Tossa de Mar (23,5 km)
Stage 10: Tossa de Mar – Lloret de Mar (13 km)
The total distance of the Camí de Ronda is a little under 200 kilometres. However, depending on the exact route and taking detours, most hikers walk between 185 and 205 kilometres in total. Note that some stages are tougher than the km suggest because of the changes in height.
Because I’ve lived in Catalonia for nearly a decade, I’ve had the luxury of discovering the Camí de Ronda piece by piece. I’ve done some amazing weekend hikes and day trips, and each part has revealed a different side of the Costa Brava. Below I’ll share some of my personal highlights of the Camí de Ronda:
Around Calella de Palafrugell
Stage 7, between Begur and Palamós, holds one of my favourite parts of the Camí de Ronda. I loved hiking around Calella de Palafrugell and Llafranc. For me, it’s one of the prettiest parts of the Costa Brava. You start in the charming town of Calella de Palafrugell with postcard-perfect white houses along the sea, and from there you can follow a path that leads you along the coastline towards Llafranc. There are endless viewpoints, small coves, and incredibly clear water here. One of the highlights is the hike up to the lighthouse (Far de Sant Sebastià), which gives you views of a large part of the Costa Brava together with views of the (sometimes snowcapped) Pyrenees.
Around Sant Feliu de Guíxols
Stage 9 offers another great experience. Walking near Sant Feliu de Guíxols has amazed me in the most positive way. I would recommend hiking from Ermita de Sant Elm to Mirador de S’Agaró. Standing above the sea at Ermita de Sant Elm gives you incredible views along a large part of the Camí de Ronda. When you approach Sant Feliu from the coastal path, the combination of the blue water and the boats in the marina is unforgettable. If you only have time for one shorter section, this is a fantastic choice.
Around Begur
If you just want to do a very short bit of the Camí de Ronda, I can recommend a hike from Cala Sa Tuna to Cala Aiguafreda, near Begur. The views here are amazing and it gives you a quick insight into what the Costa Brava and the Camí de Ronda have to offer. You could combine this with a visit to Begur, which is a lovely old town.
Around Cap de Creus
Stage 2 is another great part of the Camí de Ronda. This section lies in the north of the Costa Brava. Here you find the towns of El Port de la Selva and Cadaqués, and especially the last one is worth a million photos. Hiking this section is a bit more adventurous, because the landscape is a bit wilder and there are fewer towns to grab food or drinks. So if you want to go hiking there, you have to plan it carefully. The feeling of space and freedom is worth it though.
What you can expect
The Camí de Ronda offers all sorts of terrain, from rocky paths and stairs to beachy coves and shaded pine forests. Along the way, there are plenty of signs, so the path is easy to follow, though a hiking app or offline map can still be helpful.
If you are doing the entire hike as a multi-day trip, it can be quite challenging physically, since you will come across rough terrain and lots of changes in height. Despite this, doing shorter bits of the trail is doable for almost everyone.
Since the Costa Brava is quite a popular destination, you will see other people along the route, but I never felt like it was too crowded. Many times you can find stretches where you are completely alone and you can enjoy the scenery in peace.
Hiking along the Camí de Ronda gives me so much joy and excitement each time I go. Discovering what’s behind the next corner and being amazed every time by the beauty and the color of the water. It truly never gets boring.
Who is this hike for?
Whether you are an experienced hiker who is looking for a multi-day trek or someone who wants to take a day trip while on a beach holiday, the Camí de Ronda is for anyone who wants to experience Catalonia beyond the cities. The best thing about the Camí de Ronda is that almost everyone can do certain parts of the trail. I hiked parts of it on my own, but I also did parts of it with my husband and our two young children and with my parents who are 70+. But to do the entire hike I would only recommend it if you are fit and don’t have a problem with walking up and down lots of stairs.
Please note that you don’t need to hike the full route to enjoy it. Even a short section gives you a taste of the beauty.
Practical tips
Getting there
The closest airport is Girona Airport, which is just a short drive to most of the towns on the Camí de Ronda. The downside of this airport is that it doesn’t have as many flights in winter as it does in summer. So if you want to do this hike outside of the summer season you often have to fly to Barcelona Airport.
From Barcelona Airport, you can travel to a town of your preference to start your Camí de Ronda adventure. The most convenient way is by car, but you could also travel by train or bus. Blanes is probably the most accessible and has a train station as well. Portbou can be reached via train from Barcelona too. The places in between can only be reached by car or bus.
If you prefer to join a tour, that’s also an option. GetYourGuide offers several tours that let you explore parts of the Camí de Ronda, a hassle-free way to enjoy the trail if you don’t want to plan transport yourself.
Travel tip
You could easily combine your hiking adventure with a day in Barcelona. If you’re short on time this perfect one day in Barcelona itinerary is a useful guide to seeing some of the city’s highlights in just one day.
Best time for hiking the Camí de Ronda
I hiked parts of the Camí de Ronda in different seasons and I think spring and autumn are the most ideal. The temperatures are perfect for hiking and the Costa Brava is lively but not too busy. Summers in Catalonia are hot and busy and on a lot of sections of the trail you are fully exposed to the sun, which makes it less comfortable. Winter can be wonderfully quiet with incredible weather too, but I noticed that in some of the towns the facilities close down, which makes it more difficult to find a nice place to stop for lunch, stock up on food and water etc.
If you want to read more about the monthly weather on the Costa Brava, please read our full Costa Brava weather guide.
Luggage transfer
If you are planning to hike the Camí de Ronda as a multi-day trip but don’t want to carry a heavy backpack, luggage transfer might be a good option. This allows you to hike with just a light daypack containing water, snacks and essentials, which makes the experience much more comfortable, especially on the longer and more challenging stages. Local companies such as Taxi en Roses offer reliable service at reasonable prices. If you want to use luggage transfer services, it’s best to arrange it in advance, especially during the summer season when availability can be limited.
What to pack
When starting the Camí de Ronda you should prepare yourself for all sorts of conditions. I would really recommend you to wear good hiking shoes, since the paths can be uneven and slippery, especially when wet. The weather can go from stormy and rainy to bloody hot so I would recommend you to wear layers. While during the day the sun warms you up quite quickly, in the mornings and late afternoons temperatures can go down, especially outside of the summer months, so packing different layers is a good idea as well.
On some parts of the trail you are hiking in the direct sunlight, so sunscreen, enough water and a hat are advisable. And also definitely don’t forget to bring your swimwear, since even in the colder months it can be nice to take a dip in the sea.
Where to sleep
The trail passes through countless coastal towns, which means you can end your hiking day in a comfortable place to stay. Many towns offer small boutique hotels, hostals, and apartments.
I can easily recommend staying in one of the small fishing villages, like Calella de Palafrugell or Tamariu. These towns are very much the charming Costa Brava style white towns and they offer amazing views and great restaurants.
If you prefer a slightly livelier base with more restaurant options, shops, and easier transport connections, towns such as Blanes, Tossa de Mar, Sant Feliu de Guíxols or Platja D’Aro can be a good choice.
Further north you can stay in El Port de la Selva or Llançà. This part of the Costa Brava feels a bit wilder and you will probably see fewer crowds.
Wherever you decide to stay, I’d recommend booking ahead in high season and checking seasonal opening times in winter, spring or autumn, as some smaller hotels and restaurants close outside the summer months.
Water and food
Like I mentioned before, you often pass through towns and villages while hiking the Camí de Ronda, which makes it easy to buy something when you need it. But not every stretch has easy access to water or food. Some parts of the trail are quite remote and here you won’t always find a beach bar or supermarket nearby. Especially in warmer months, this can catch you off guard. But also when hiking in winter time, some towns are almost completely deserted and it might be difficult to buy water or snacks when you need it. So please, always carry more water than you think you’ll need.
That said, one of my favorite things about hiking along the Camí de Ronda is that you often have amazing places to stop for lunch. In places like Calella de Palafrugell, Tossa de Mar and Sant Feliu de Guíxols, you’ll find some great restaurants, especially during the summer season.
Safety tips
The Camí de Ronda is generally a very safe route, but there are a few things to keep in mind. Since some parts of the trail are rocky and uneven, with steep drops next to the path please make sure you are wearing good hiking shoes and stick to the path.
Another thing to be aware of is the Mediterranean sun. The heat can be very intense, especially in summer. So it’s good to start your hike early in the morning and drink lots of water.
Try to always check the weather before you head out. Some sections can become very slippery when it’s raining and on very windy days it might be a better idea to take an alternative route more inland.
Another thing to consider especially for multi-day hikes is travel insurance. It’s always a good idea to be covered in case of injury, illness, or unexpected changes to your plans, giving you peace of mind while exploring the trail.
Final thoughts on Camí de Ronda
If you’re visiting Catalonia, please add at least one section of the Camí de Ronda to your itinerary because I think the Camí de Ronda is one of my favourite hiking trails in the world and I have done a lot of hikes. The best thing about it is the stunning views with the turquoise water, which amazes me every time I go there. After almost ten years of living close by, I’m still discovering new parts of it. Who knows maybe one day I’ll finally walk the Camí de Ronda from Lloret de Mar all the way to Portbou in one go. Until then, I’m happy exploring it piece by piece.
